Just south of Madrid is a small town, Aranjuez. Built around a royal palace and of course its gardens. It was astonishing to wander through and encounter less than 10 other tourists. The principle gardens are large but monotonous, comprising of long avenues punctuated with fountains, most of which were switched off. In their prime they would have been stunning, but the box hedging now looks tired and the overhead canopy is so dense that whilst it gives welcome shade the falling leaves and shadow are killing the effect below. (The effect as it was probably attended is better seen in Valencia, at Jardines de Real (Viveros) - lots of arty hedge clipping. The approach to the entrance of the palace is through a vast square. Some attempt at a contemporary border has been made at one end but sadly it has been neglected and looks beyond repair, however, opposite this is a gateway through into a large courtyard and if you like lavender it is worth the diversion. I have seen it when in flower as well as later in the summer, and when in flower it is stunning. Huge beds of chest high plants radiate from the square’s simple centre, a simple but striking use of repetition and rhythm.